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I recently acquired a bassani O/R X pipe and decided to do some research and learn how to make my own MIL Eliminators. Since the O2 bungs were located pretty far back on the bassani pipe, I would also have needed to buy O2 extension wires. The total cost for the MILs and the Extensions was going to be about $100, but I instead built my custom setup for only $20 in radio shack parts.
The parts/part numbers from radio shack that you will need are:
#2760148 - PC Board - 1 Package
will do. You can break the board in half.
#2721434 - Tantalum Capacitor - You need 2 of these
#2711356 - This is a 5 pack of 1 mega ohm resistors. One pack is enough.
You will also need 20 gauge wire(25 ft. or so), electrical tape, solder, and a soldering iron. If you don't have these items they can also be bought at radioshack.
You will need to remove your stock rear O2 sensors for this process.
Start by carefully cutting off the outer sheathing from the O2 sensor wiring. Once it is off you will notice that there are 4 different wires -- A Gray wire, a Black Wire, and two White wires. You will want to mark one of the white wires because they will have to be matched up in their original configuration when everything is soldered back together.
Next cut through all 4 wire mid way between the connector and the O2 sensor. You will now have 2 separate pieces. Strip the end of all of the wires so that you have about a half inch exposed on each wire.
Cut 4 equal strips of 20 gauge wire and strip the ends of these as well( the length you need will depend on how much of an extension you need -- each brand of midpipe mounts the O2 Bungs in different spots). I used about 2 1/2 feet for each wire.
You will now twist/solder these wires to the two halves of the O2 wiring harness so that it seems you have now just extended the wiring harness. Be sure to pay special attention to matching the wires up correctly. You wouldn't want a black wire now connected to a different color.
Tape up each solder point so that the wires don't touch each other. After each section is tapped you can then add another layer of tape around the entire area for extra strength.
The next step will be to cut the black and gray wire in the middle of the harness(the harness should now be about 3 feet long total and you will want to cut in the middle area so that you can tie wrap it up later away from hot exhaust areas).
Go ahead and strip the wires in the same fashion as before and now you are going to follow the wiring diagram. Solder everything to the pc board as shown in the picture. Be sure to solder on the side of the board that has the little copper circles. The solder will hold everything tight to the copper area.
Be sure to pay attention to which end the Sensor is on and which the connector is on -- IT DOES MATTER.
After everything is soldered up wrap the entire wire area of the harness with the electrical tape. Once all of the steps have been completed you should see the two ends(one the connector and the other the O2 sensors) with electrical tapped wire from end to end.
Undo your battery terminals so that the car has now power.
Screw the sensors back into the pipe and plug the connector ends back into the car.
After getting the sensors plugged back up about 5 minutes should have passed. Put the terminals back onto the battery and you are good to go.
I can't absolutely positively promise you that this will work for your
car, but it has for mine and was much cheaper than buying MIL's/Extensions.
It works exactly like MILs do so if you have followed the instructions
and diagram you should be good to go and not have to look at an annoying
check engine light.
found @ http://www.bmcforums.com
I've got a 00' V6 manual transmission, 94-98 headers.
I gutted my Cats and needed these mil eliminators.
But i only got 104 capacitors.
The P0420 code disappeared and hasn't come back since but the P0430 is still lingering.
I'm changing the capacitor and resistor once again, but my doubt is:
Is a 104 (.1uF Capacitor) the problem? Should I get the 105 (1uF capacitor).
Plus, I've got a 4.7uF(50v) Capacitor lingering around, would that do the trick too? Or could I cause more trouble?
I have built 3 sets of these and none have worked
I am building them just like the photo and the lights keeps coming back on. Should I reverse the black and gray wires? This is on a 03 gt convertible
Yes you should.
I made 3 sets and it didnt work also i had to use the 1/2 watt resistor the 1/4 didnt work.
Will this work on a 98 Ranger with 2.5L 4cyl?
they worked on my 02 mustang gt, no MIL and all monitors checked in after a long cruise beats spending 80 dollars.
this works however the black wire is the + and the gray wire is the -. wire the capacitor and the resistor on the positive wire not the gray wire
what if the rear oxygen sensor is missing like the wires were just cut off at the sensor is there a way to make this still work?
Hey just like the first post, the capacitor has short and long wire. Is the long side connected to the resistor side? Please confirm.
the capacitor does not have polarity no matter wich one filament
There is a long wire and a short wire coming from the capacitor. In the diagram it looks like the long one attaches to the resistor side of things. Is this correct or does it not matter?
this worked for my 2001 Mustang GT 
...and it only cost about $10...
Will this work on my 96 F150 5.8 liter?
This worked on my 09 f150. Didn't use the board though. Wanted to keep it small. Thanks for the help.
if i did this could i gut out my cat and not have my check engine light come on
Yes, these will prevent your check engine or SES light from coming on.
Would this work on my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6 V-8?
Yes it should, I would imagine at least.
You need to make 1 for each side correct? By the way nice write up!
Will these work on my car becuse i cant find any for it?
It should.
These do work great. A friend and I built a set two years ago exactly like this and they solved me CEL. Cost 5 bucks or so. I didn't use the board though, wanted to keep things nice and small. Anyone can do this with little to no skill and save money.
Thanks for the write-up. I made these MIL Eliminators following this write-up, and they work like a charm. Keep up the good work Mike!