|How To Make MIL Eliminators for your Mustang|
I recently acquired a bassani O/R X pipe and decided to do some research and learn how to make my own MIL Eliminators. Since the O2 bungs were located pretty far back on the bassani pipe, I would also have needed to buy O2 extension wires. The total cost for the MILs and the Extensions was going to be about $100, but I instead built my custom setup for only $20 in radio shack parts.
The parts/part numbers from radio shack that you will need are:
You will also need 20 gauge wire(25 ft. or so), electrical tape, solder, and a soldering iron. If you don't have these items they can also be bought at radioshack.
You will need to remove your stock rear O2 sensors for this process.
Start by carefully cutting off the outer sheathing from the O2 sensor wiring. Once it is off you will notice that there are 4 different wires -- A Gray wire, a Black Wire, and two White wires. You will want to mark one of the white wires because they will have to be matched up in their original configuration when everything is soldered back together.
Next cut through all 4 wire mid way between the connector and the O2 sensor. You will now have 2 separate pieces. Strip the end of all of the wires so that you have about a half inch exposed on each wire.
Cut 4 equal strips of 20 gauge wire and strip the ends of these as well( the length you need will depend on how much of an extension you need -- each brand of midpipe mounts the O2 Bungs in different spots). I used about 2 1/2 feet for each wire.
You will now twist/solder these wires to the two halves of the O2 wiring harness so that it seems you have now just extended the wiring harness. Be sure to pay special attention to matching the wires up correctly. You wouldn't want a black wire now connected to a different color.
Tape up each solder point so that the wires don't touch each other. After each section is tapped you can then add another layer of tape around the entire area for extra strength.
The next step will be to cut the black and gray wire in the middle of the harness(the harness should now be about 3 feet long total and you will want to cut in the middle area so that you can tie wrap it up later away from hot exhaust areas).
Go ahead and strip the wires in the same fashion as before and now you are going to follow the wiring diagram. Solder everything to the pc board as shown in the picture. Be sure to solder on the side of the board that has the little copper circles. The solder will hold everything tight to the copper area.
Be sure to pay attention to which end the Sensor is on and which the connector is on -- IT DOES MATTER.
After everything is soldered up wrap the entire wire area of the harness with the electrical tape. Once all of the steps have been completed you should see the two ends(one the connector and the other the O2 sensors) with electrical tapped wire from end to end.
Undo your battery terminals so that the car has now power.
Screw the sensors back into the pipe and plug the connector ends back into the car.
After getting the sensors plugged back up about 5 minutes should have passed. Put the terminals back onto the battery and you are good to go.
found @ http://www.bmcforums.com
There are 31 comments
January 31, 2014 - 10:02 PM
Long end of capacitor is + and short end is -.
December 04, 2013 - 10:11 PM
Just made a set of these, already had wire. Cost me about 6$ for the parts. Ill be back and post how they worked.
December 06, 2013 - 04:31 PM
Good luck. Post up a picture here when you get around to it!
September 05, 2013 - 10:53 AM
Subject: Ford V8 in Jaguars
I have the Ford V8 Dual Overhead Cam 4.0 Liter. I think its the same engine found in early Lincoln LS Sports Sedans (though they call it a 3.9).
August 14, 2013 - 10:13 PM
Subject: Newer Fords
For newer Mustangs ie 2005+ 4.6 Do we have to use 1/2 watt resistors? I'm getting the code "Rear O2 Stuck Lean"
July 28, 2013 - 08:50 PM
Subject: Land Rover Discovery 2 with a 4.6 Bosh V8
Hi there Guy's.. Do u think this also can work on my land rover??? I just did the throttle body groove and now the engine is dumping more gas to keep my exhaust temp up. So i'm not getting much of the gains from the up grade. Just like 2% increase on fuel economy
May 24, 2013 - 09:33 PM
Subject: Re: MIL Eliminators
I used this article to make my own MIL's. I did not need to extend the wires so I just cut the Black and Gray wires and soldered in the resister and capacitors.shrink wrapped and taped.
I did not used the pc board either.
I did this on my 1999 SVT Lightning and it worked great. No more codes for catalyst system.
The MIL's you buy for mustangs/ford are pretty much universal. The 02 sensor wires on my Lightning were Identical.
Thanks for sharing! Saved me 32 dollars.
I spent 18 dollars total Including the Solder and Shrink Wrap
January 28, 2013 - 07:56 AM
I've got a 00' V6 manual transmission, 94-98 headers.
Plus, I've got a 4.7uF(50v) Capacitor lingering around, would that do the trick too? Or could I cause more trouble?
December 23, 2012 - 11:48 PM
Subject: mil eliminators
I have built 3 sets of these and none have worked
January 28, 2013 - 08:08 AM
Yes you should.
March 24, 2013 - 05:17 AM
I made 3 sets and it didnt work also i had to use the 1/2 watt resistor the 1/4 didnt work.
June 13, 2012 - 06:12 AM
Will this work on a 98 Ranger with 2.5L 4cyl?
October 29, 2011 - 10:45 PM
Subject: thank you
they worked on my 02 mustang gt, no MIL and all monitors checked in after a long cruise beats spending 80 dollars.
April 01, 2012 - 05:55 PM
this works however the black wire is the + and the gray wire is the -. wire the capacitor and the resistor on the positive wire not the gray wire
September 21, 2011 - 11:09 PM
Subject: what about?
what if the rear oxygen sensor is missing like the wires were just cut off at the sensor is there a way to make this still work?
May 12, 2011 - 05:29 PM
Hey just like the first post, the capacitor has short and long wire. Is the long side connected to the resistor side? Please confirm.
January 04, 2012 - 04:40 PM
the capacitor does not have polarity no matter wich one filament
May 06, 2011 - 08:06 PM
There is a long wire and a short wire coming from the capacitor. In the diagram it looks like the long one attaches to the resistor side of things. Is this correct or does it not matter?
March 18, 2011 - 12:13 AM
this worked for my 2001 Mustang GT ...and it only cost about $10...
February 23, 2011 - 08:50 PM
Will this work on my 96 F150 5.8 liter?
October 03, 2010 - 05:33 PM
This worked on my 09 f150. Didn't use the board though. Wanted to keep it small. Thanks for the help.
August 14, 2013 - 10:11 PM
Subject: MIL question
Dude. I have no idea if you still get messages. When you made your MIL eliminator for your 09 F150. Did you use the 1/2watt resistor. Or made it just like mike did it?
September 29, 2010 - 11:00 AM
if i did this could i gut out my cat and not have my check engine light come on
September 29, 2010 - 01:24 PM
Yes, these will prevent your check engine or SES light from coming on.
July 04, 2009 - 06:47 AM
Would this work on my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6 V-8?
August 18, 2009 - 04:13 AM
Subject: It should
Yes it should, I would imagine at least.
June 30, 2009 - 11:00 PM
You need to make 1 for each side correct? By the way nice write up!
May 16, 2009 - 12:41 AM
Subject: 08 mustang
Will these work on my car becuse i cant find any for it?
May 16, 2009 - 01:32 AM
December 05, 2008 - 03:03 PM
These do work great. A friend and I built a set two years ago exactly like this and they solved me CEL. Cost 5 bucks or so. I didn't use the board though, wanted to keep things nice and small. Anyone can do this with little to no skill and save money.
August 08, 2008 - 02:31 PM
Subject: Nice write-up
Thanks for the write-up. I made these MIL Eliminators following this write-up, and they work like a charm. Keep up the good work Mike!
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