The maintenance schedule calls
for changing the fuel filter at 30,000 miles. This is a simple do it yourself
item if you have the right tools. Should only take you about 30 minutes
unless you start fiddle farting around and looking at how things are put
together while under the car.
Securely raise the rear of the
vehicle. Either backup on ramps or use a jack and jack stands. The fuel
filter is located almost directly above the differential. There is a schrader valve on
the passenger side fuel rail with a black cap on it. The manual shows
using a tool to release the fuel pressure here before changing the fuel
filter. I was only able to get maybe 1 CC of fuel out of the valve.
The fuel lines have about a
1/2" round fitting on the end. Inside this fitting is a captured coiled
spring, like a ball point pen spring bent into a circle. On the fuel filter
is a ridge, one side tapered and the other side of the ridge is straight.
To install the filter you simply
press the filter into the housing, and the tapered edge will allow the
line to push the spring out of the way and click into place. Because the
other side is straight it can not pull back out of the housing. Further
into the housing is a set of o-rings that the filter end slips into. To remove the fuel filter you
need to use the special tool. The tool slides along the fuel filter line
and contacts the spring in the housing and pushes it out of the way. This
allows you to remove the fuel filter. There is also a safety lock
that holds the fuel filter and the line together. This keeps pressure
on the lines so the spring lock is not constantly under pressure. First pry up the out side end
of the safety lock and then swing the clip up and out. Take note how it
tilts into place.
Insert the correct size tool,
5/16 on the fuel filter and slide it towards the outside. If they are
the new single piece plastic ones they they are going to be tight and
will take a little bit of work to get it to slide over the line the first
You will fill resistance when
the tool meets the spring. You will feel it click when the spring releases.
Once the tool clicks into place you can pull the fuel line away from the
fuel filter. You can place a bucket underneath to catch the fuel, only
a couple of ounces
Next I removed the clamp to have more room for the release tool to fit
around the filter line. Then released the lock same as the other side.
Pull the filter out of the
bracket. Check the ends of the fuel
filter to make sure they are round and smooth and then push the tank side
line onto the filter. The arrow on the filter should be pointing to the
engine side of the fuel line. Push the filter into the bracket
and slide the radiator clamp on. Push the other fuel line onto
the filter. You will feel it click past the spring lock. Secure the radiator clamp. Install the safety locks by
tilting the catch into and on the fuel filter line and push down and over
the larger housing on the fuel line side. You can tell which goes on which
because one is larger than the other. Larger goes to the outside on the
That is it. I put the key to
run and let the line pressurize and checked for leaks at the filter and
at the schrader valve on the fuel rail also. Just in case you were wondering,
those holes in the end of the mufflers are supposed to be there, to let
water out, same with those little holes on the tail pipes also.
A few things you can not do
like the old days.
Crank on those little radiator
clamps until rubber starts squirting through the slots.
Put on that new see through
glass filter so you can see the fuel flowing into the carburetor.
Just for safety reasons,
put on two of those little clamps so you can have twice the rubber squirting
Cut the last 1/4 inch hose
off because it is starting to crack.
And last just get any old
fuel filter as long as it is 5/16" fittings.